Santokie Nagulendran roams through the streets of Bogota, talking race, lineage and rivalries before entering the El Campin to watch Millonarios, the biggest team from the city, play football.

It’s a cold, eerily quiet evening. The streets are barely lit, so there is a darkness to accompany the silence on the streets as I walk to Estadio El Campin from my hotel, aptly named “Hotel El Campin” due to its proximity to the venue. The hotel receptionist told me it would probably be better to get a taxi to the stadium, but part of the fun of going to games abroad is to walk with the fans, immerse yourself in the culture around the home club. However, the walk to the stadium is subdued, there aren’t too many fans around, or people in general for that matter, all I can hear is the chirping of crickets in the air. Have I got the right date? I carry on walking and then all reveals itself as I turn a dark corner, a massive grey structure covering the horizon, police sirens wail and there is a sea blue wave in the distance making loud noises. The blue of Millionarios. Football in Bogota. Let’s do this.
Bogota is a temperamental city. In one instance the weather can go from chilly winds to blazing heat, there’s an unpredictability to the climate that adds to the allure of Colombia’s capital. Historically, Bogota has always been a transit stop for travellers in Colombia, with most choosing to spend most of their time in Medellin or Cartagena, a colonial town on the Caribbean coast of the country. However, recent years have seen Bogota blossom as an attraction itself; the stunning political graffiti that encompasses its concrete surroundings add a vibrancy to a city which already has amazing museums and a remarkably diverse food culture.
Bogota’s two major clubs are Santa Fe, who wear red, and Millionarios, who wear blue. People here wear football shirts everywhere, so a walk during the day time through Bogota is a colour fest, with people wearing red, blue and yellow (the National kit) in waves. My stay in Bogota sees Millionarios play a home game on a Sunday evening, which means by default this will be my team in Bogota. Millionarios for life.